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Yes, the rooms are a little cramped, and after twenty years, those scrawled murals on the wall look like some early Martha Stewart experiment gone horribly awry. But consistency and good cheer are the keys to Danny Meyer’s perennially popular, Zagat-approved restaurant. And nowhere else are uncommon combinations such as wasabi mashed potatoes so seamlessly incorporated into dishes (so as to never frighten the buttoned-down natives). Surprisingly, vegetarians will eat better here than at any of their hallowed haunts. The bar is a great place to lunch solo. And the banana tart with honey-vanilla ice cream can make you act the fool. — Adam Platt, Robin Raisfeld, and Rob Patronite

Daily, 2:30 p.m.–4:30 p.m.

Reservations
Can be made up to 28 days in advance.

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Recipes at Union Square Cafe

• Endive Spears With Crabmeat Salad (2001)