4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R, W at 14th St.-Union Sq.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Waverly Pl. to 18th St., Third Ave. to Seventh Ave.
This venue is closed.
Refreshingly unconcerned with its appearance, this weathered diner in the shadow of Union Square offers no trace of retro gimmicks—or a crowd that cares for such pretense. Formica tables bolted into the floor are topped with sprigs of fake flowers, while a faint fried-food smell never quite goes away. The oversize menu with the inevitable typos (“coffe”) reads on and on. Go easy on the appetizers: Fried mozzarella sticks (emphasis on fried) can leave an oily aftertaste, while the delicate calamari struggle vainly against the thick batter they’re swathed in. The meat-lover’s omelette, swollen with ham, sausage, and fatty curls of bacon, lives up to its name, though the accompanying home-style potatoes tend toward mealy, and you’d need a magnifying glass to find the onion bits. Punch it up with a dash of Tabasco—or better yet, ask for the crisp fries instead. The diner’s only real pretension is its claim to serving the “best cheesecake in New York,” a boast that the dense wedge with a lemony tang doesn’t quite back up, though it’s impossible not to finish.Recommended Dishes
Meat-lover’s omelette, $6.85; hamburger with fries, $6.45