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The Indonesian expats who congregate at this family-run establishment gravitate to the “nasi rames” section of the menu, where the rice-dominated combination plates are clustered. That might be the more filling, economical route, but we’d rather share a slew of vibrantly spiced dishes, starting with the peanut-sauced salad called gado-gado topped with crisp, free-form melinjo-nut crackers. The beef in the national dish of rendang padang is chewy and a tad tough, but ultimately redeemed by its addictively incendiary sauce. In comparison, toothsome ayam rendang—chicken on the bone lavishly rubbed with lemongrass-and-ginger-infused spice paste—seems tame. We’ve yet to determine whether es teler is drink or dessert, but with its crushed ice and tropical fruits, it works both ways. Thick, rich es pokat, though, a lethal blend of avocado and condensed milk, is a meal unto itself. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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