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Are you dying for an overcooked burger like that one at Churchill Downs? Wondering where you might find chicken wings to rival those of Wrigley Field? Okay, unlikely. But it’s that kind of institutional fare that you’ll find at the U.S. Open Club, easily the least glamorous of the sit-down restaurants at Arthur Ashe Stadium: Oddly elitist (you need a pass to get in), this concourse cafeteria expands upon the menu of the adjoining patio (burgers and sandwiches) with a buffet of pastas, salads, etc. But the longer menu comes with lesser visuals. Goodbye, honey locust trees and blue-and-white umbrellas. Hello, track lighting and drab carpeting. There’s just one thing to ask yourself when faced with a choice like this: How bad do you want AC? — Drew Pisarra

Restaurant passes are required. To purchase passes, call the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center ticket office at 718-760-6363.

Chicken quesadilla, $19

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• U.S. Open Eats (8/24/09)