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In a borough where red sauce flows freely, Queens wine bars are still rare. Middle Village’s Uvarara, which takes its name from an obscure Lombardian grape, wants to introduce Italian varietals to the underserved neighborhood. The shadowy church-like space with ochre stucco walls is broken up by arches and dark wood beams. Wine practically demands food, and tagliere, platters of salumi and cheese divvied up in preappointed combinations, is a good place to start. Mild, smoky caciotta affumicata, similar to gouda, pairs well with piquant slices of sopressata. Fagottini, one small dish on a list of piattini, is described as a savory zeppole. The mozzarella, basil and tomato-stuffed appetizer is more like a crusty roll than a fritter, but no less inventive. While salads like the octopus and potato slicked with olive oil and a variety of panini might be enough food for some, others may want to order entrees from a small roster that changes daily. The wine list has something for everyone and the staff is quick with suggestions: Oenephiles in training may want to learn about Pinot Grigio while more jaded drinkers can try a lesser-known Lagrein. — Krista Garcia

Fagottini, $7.50; tagliere, $13