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Jean-Georges Vongerichten has reinvented those musty New York steakhouse must-haves for his unabashedly rococo contribution to Time Warner's collection of star-launched eateries. The New York strip is fine, although it lacks that pleasing, extra-salty charcoal crunch. If you feel like blowing a Vegas-size wad of cash on a Vegas-size haunch of beef, order the very good porterhouse or the rib eye, which is cut in generously thick slices for two. The double-cut pork chop is similarly nourishing and massive.Recommended Dishes
Tuna with avocado, radish, and ginger, $14; crispy pork roll, $11; shrimp in tomato horseradish water, $13; oysters with basil, wasabi, and potato crumbs, $16; New England clam chowder, $11; baked lobster, $45-$75; salmon, $28; veal rib chop, $36; braised celery hearts; $7; lemon-meringue composition, $8; carrot cake, $8