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With the ongoing influx of Mexican kitchen workers to the city, cantina eats have quickly evolved from the dispiriting combination platters of yore to a new wave of tasty, honest-to-the-homeland cucinas, like ¡Vamos! Half of its appealingly spare red-and-white interior is given over to a busy central bar commandeered by youngish locals. Dining and bar tables surround the margarita mania; in warm weather, the front wall folds open to reveal a row of sidewalk tables, sheltered from First Avenue’s din by Stuyvesant Town's entrance road. The menu leans toward cocktail-friendly small plates, like chunky guacamole with just-right doses of lime and chili, and a fresh and tangy ceviche. Tacos could use a little more heat; pepperheads find an ample supply in grilled serranos, chopped habañeros and jalapeños, and a wicked habañero aioli. No chili is required for the baked-bread pudding. It’s hardly Mexican, but majorly bueno. ¡Vamos! may not yield a south-of-the-border epiphany, but the well-made food is satisfying enough to propose, “Vamos here again.” — Karen Tina Harrison

The prix fixe brunch on Saturdays and Sundays, from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., includes an entrée, two sides, coffee, and your choice of cocktail.

Guacamole, $9 and $17; ceviche, $10-$11; camarones tacos, $8 and $15