F, G at Bergen St.
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This venue is closed.
A casual spot that has undergone the transformation from a sandwich joint to a full-blown restaurant, Van Horn is excellent for a hearty weekend brunch or a lip-smacking dinner. With a steady buzz at the bar, the intimate dining area is good for dates or small groups, while the back room can be reserved for large parties and a special prix-fixe meal. The southern-inspired menu is a graciously manageable size, and it’s actually impossible to make a wrong choice. For a starter, the sunchoke fritters special is hard to beat—sort of like fancy tater tots, the fried chokes seem to dissolve in your mouth and come with shredded kale and pickled cranberries. The curry granola on the Virginia peanut soup is also worth investigating if you’re hankering for a creamy dish. Salty and savory go hand-in-hand here, especially in a hearty main of roasted chicken with cornbread and fava beans brightened by Meyer lemon. The sweet-potato gnocchi is also highly recommended, not least of all because of the exquisite smoked maitake mushrooms. As a side, the crispy fingerlings have more flavor than the Brussels sprouts, partly because they come with tangy crème fraiche. To finish, the molasses cake with chopped dates is all the dessert one needs.Recommended Dishes
Sunchoke fritters, $12; sweet-potato gnocchi, $16; crispy fingerlings, $7.