L at Third Ave.; 4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R, W at 14th St.-Union Sq.
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4th St. to 24th St., Ave. D to Seventh Ave.
Although the orange walls and blue light fixtures suggest a formulaic approach to design (and underscore its fast-food format), the Beijing-style street food here is refreshingly handmade, and it shows—from the healthy boiled seafood to the rich fried cabbage and pork. Steamed dumplings (filled with vegetables, pork, or sweet red-bean paste) are by far the best bang for your buck, but the greasy, crisp sesame pancake sandwiches of pork, beef, and vegetables have also earned a well-deserved fan base. Avoid the Japanese dishes, which often fall short; consider taking home a bag of 30 frozen dumplings instead.Recommended Dishes
Sesame pancake sandwich with roast pork, $2.99; vegetable fried dumplings, $1.99; steamed red-bean-paste dumpling, $1.99