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Varietal

Critic's Pick Critics' Pick

138 W. 25th St., New York, NY 10001 40.744609 -73.992993
nr. Seventh Ave.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-633-1800 Send to Phone

  • Cuisine: American Nouveau
  • Price Range: $$$

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Critics' Rating: **

    Key to Prices and ratings

    Upscale
    • Almost Perfect
    • Exceptional
    • Generally Excellent
    • Very Good
    • Good
    Cheap Eats
    • Best in Category
    • Excellent
    • Delicious
    • Very Good
    • Noteworthy
    • Very Expensive
    • Expensive
    • Moderate
    • Cheap
  • Reader Rating:

    10 out of 10

      |  

    4 Reviews | Write a Review

Photo by Bumblebee Studio

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Official Website

varietal.com

Nearby Subway Stops

1 at 23rd St.

Prices

$29-$39

Payment Methods

American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa

Special Features

  • Dine at the Bar
  • Notable Chef
  • Notable Wine List
  • Prix-Fixe

Alcohol

  • Full Bar

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

This venue is closed.

There are clichéd qualities about Varietal that a jaded, obsessively nitpicky restaurant critic might choose to bring up. Like the hokey chandeliers constructed from wineglasses, or the friendly though slightly overarticulate waiters who offer endless recitations of the abstract and sometimes downright weird food. But in the end, the whole potentially grim scene is rescued by the cooking, which is highly complex, aggressively trendy, and often pretty good. Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms don’t go with lemon verbena, it turns out (especially when they’re pallidly cooked). But it’s possible to braise good pork belly in tobacco (it’s possible to braise good pork belly in anything), provided you make the skin nice and crackly and serve it with baby collard greens. And a scallop can survive an encounter with pomegranate, provided it’s fresh, well seared, and flavored with cumin and a touch of cardamom.

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