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Varietal
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Critics' Pick
Official Website
Nearby Subway Stops
1 at 23rd St.
Prices
$29-$39
Payment Methods
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Special Features
- Dine at the Bar
- Notable Chef
- Notable Wine List
- Prix-Fixe
Alcohol
- Full Bar
Reservations
Recommended
Profile
This venue is closed.
There are clichéd qualities about Varietal that a jaded, obsessively nitpicky restaurant critic might choose to bring up. Like the hokey chandeliers constructed from wineglasses, or the friendly though slightly overarticulate waiters who offer endless recitations of the abstract and sometimes downright weird food. But in the end, the whole potentially grim scene is rescued by the cooking, which is highly complex, aggressively trendy, and often pretty good. Hen-of-the-woods mushrooms don’t go with lemon verbena, it turns out (especially when they’re pallidly cooked). But it’s possible to braise good pork belly in tobacco (it’s possible to braise good pork belly in anything), provided you make the skin nice and crackly and serve it with baby collard greens. And a scallop can survive an encounter with pomegranate, provided it’s fresh, well seared, and flavored with cumin and a touch of cardamom.
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| 9.3 | "Highly Recommended" Average Reader Rating on a Scale of 10 |
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Wish to contact Chef of Licorice Cake for information
katanko from 22314 | Posted on 8/29/07
| Food: | 10 |
| Service: | 10 |
| Décor: | 10 |
| Value: | 10 |
I stumbled across the review while searching for information concerning licorice and would like to contact the Chef who developed this amazing dessert. My interest is in asking him for permission to observe his art form in the kitchen or to attend his seminars. It is my understanding there have been changes in management but I am certain the professionals at the restaurant would assist me as I hope to improve my culinary knowledge. The chef may respond to me at Katan-Ko@hotmail.com. I plan a honeymoon soon, my fiance has promised he will let me visit "kitichens of interest". I also wanted permission to reprint the licorice cake recipe. Truly, Kathryn
Perfect mix of Food & Wine
dasklar from 10001 | Posted on 2/20/07
| Food: | 9 |
| Service: | 10 |
| Décor: | 9 |
| Value: | 8 |
I had a very nice experience here & completely enjoyed the tasting menu. I suggest you let the wine be chosen by the staff. After all, the restaurant is named after a grape, right?... The staff was really on top of their game & very attentive. This is a good place to let your taste buds guess what's in each dish,... This is a very creative chef & presentation was perfect.
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