Mon-Thu, 11:30am-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-11:30; Sun, noon-10:30pm
2, 3 at Bergen St.
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
17th St. to Myrtle Ave., Kingston St. to Clinton St.
The red tile floors, the electric faux-windows on the otherwise barren walls, and an eight-page menu all suggest a typical neighborhood Chinese spot. But like those fake windows, everything is not as it seems at this mock-meat haven, where diehard vegans, curious couples, and Brooklyn blue-collars gather to feast on massive portions of soy oddities like Cornish game “hen” and crispy “eel.” Most of the menu is dedicated to reconstructing Asian classics with bean curd and wheat protein, and many dishes do justice to their meaty muses: A soothing, rich curry of “chicken” and potatoes is balanced with subtle heat, while roast “goose” showcases tofu-skin-wrapped mushrooms and bean sprouts, fried until each piece looks and crunches like a hunk of bronzed bird. Pseudo spare ribs and Peking duck will leave most omnivores longing for the real thing and possibly inspire a detour to one of the cheesesteak or taco joints around the corner for some beefy “dessert.”Recommended Dishes
Spinach dumplings, $6; crispy fried noodle with mixed vegetables, $7.95; chicken curry with potatoes, $12.50