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Nestled comfortably among Astoria’s semi-attached brick houses, Vesta Trattoria & Wine Bar is just past the deafening screeches of the 30th Avenue subway and just in sight of the lights of Roosevelt Island high-rises. Despite the restaurant’s out-of-the-way address, the tightly packed row of wooden two-seaters and plush red bar stools here are completely filled on any given evening. Before, during, and after the dinner rush, the atmosphere is always mellow—lighting flickers calmly from candles and wall sconces, and dulcet instrumental tones hum in the background. The menu alternates between simple and slightly less traditional Italian fare, all employing fresh ingredients from the local Greenmarket. Classic lasagna comes in a casserole dish, crusty on top yet bubbling in the middle, while a crisp, flavorful flatbread is strewn with duck, goat cheese, and wild mushrooms. Be sure to save room for the Baby Jesus Cake: warm and topped with a crunchy caramel film, this take on transubstantiation is way more appetizing than the wafer. — Allix Geneslaw

Lasagna, $15; The Quacker, $15; Baby Jesus Cake, $6.50

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