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Despite having one of the larger signs in Midtown's Little Brazil, the entrance to Via Brasil is fairly narrow and unprepossessing. Inside it's a different story: The interior extends far back with tropically colored walls decorated with pictures of toucans and parrots, large round tables and banquettes, and a piano standing ready for the near-nightly musical performances. Worthy of star billing on the menu is feijoada completa, Brazil's national dish. This elaborate, inky stew of small black beans, cured and fresh pork (and other meats) is served with sides of collards and toasted manioc flour, the latter sprinkled over the stew to soak up the sauce. Obsessed meat-eaters may prefer one of the grilled meat selections called churrascos. Other menu standouts include the moquecas—rich stews made with palm oil, coconut milk, onions, and tomatoes; the various renditions here are all made with seafood, be it shrimp, grouper or salt cod. — John D. Rambow

The caipirinhas—Brazil's famous cocktail of lime, sugar, and sugarcane liquor—are tart, smooth and super-strong.

Feijoada completa, $23.95; moqueca with shrimp, $19.95