Mon-Thu, noon-3pm and 5pm-11pm; Fri, noon-3pm and 5pm-11:30pm; Sat, 5:30pm-11:30pm; Sun, closed
6 at 23rd St.
According to the menu at Via Emilia, tortellini came about centuries ago when an innkeeper caught a keyhole glimpse of a beautiful woman undressing, inspiring him to fashion her navel in dough. We're not sure what that pervy pasta-maker would think of modern-day belly-button-baring Manhattan, but in any case, he'd heartily approve of this spare but homey trattoria's soulful tortellini in brodo and its perfectly sauced homemade tortelloni—tortellini's supersize siblings—variously stuffed with spinach and ricotta, pumpkin, or chicken and wild mushrooms. The inspiration for some of the other Emilia-Romagnan delicacies here—gnoccho fritto, the puffy fritters served with cured meats, and calzagatti, a sort of stuffed polenta—is left to the imagination.Extra
Via Emilia only serves wine from the Emilia Romagna region.Recommended Dishes
Tortellini in brodo, $11; spinach and ricotta tortelloni, $13; gnoccho frito, $8