Mon-Thu, noon-3pm and 5pm-11pm; Fri, noon-3pm and 5pm-11:30pm; Sat, 5:30pm-11:30pm; Sun, closed
6 at 23rd St.
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According to the menu at Via Emilia, tortellini came about centuries ago when an innkeeper caught a keyhole glimpse of a beautiful woman undressing, inspiring him to fashion her navel in dough. We're not sure what that pervy pasta-maker would think of modern-day belly-button-baring Manhattan, but in any case, he'd heartily approve of this spare but homey trattoria's soulful tortellini in brodo. The inspiration for some of the other Emilia-Romagnan delicacies here—gnoccho fritto, the puffy fritters served with cured meats, and calzagatti, a sort of stuffed polenta—is left to the imagination.Extra
Via Emilia only serves wine from the Emilia Romagna region.Recommended Dishes
Tortellini in brodo, $13; gnoccho frito, $11