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Don’t be surprised if a stiff wind from the Hudson blows you into Voyage with a wicked lash. Once inside, the flavors are all over the map—Japan, Louisiana, Jamaica—with some ports of call more enjoyable than others. Some of the standouts: the truffled scallops on grits with red-eye gravy and the baby greens in pomegranate vinaigrette. Chatham cod is caressed by paprika crust, and the roasted salmon with basil mash is so confident and fine that it shows why the chef should trust simplicity more. It might prevent his sweet-potato gnocchi from being trounced by trumpet mushrooms, leeks, and garlic. It’s probably maiden-voyage jitters. With apple pain perdu—an exemplary example of cross-cultural accord—Voyage may not yet be a destination, but if your passport isn’t likely to get stamped anytime soon, it’s a nifty place to come in from the cold. Just don’t try to rub your hands by the fire. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Hal Rubenstein's Full Review (2/17/03)