This venue is closed.
You can’t judge a restaurant by its entrance. This one, you access by the front door of Rose Live Music, through what looks like a fire exit, down a flight of stairs, past the bathrooms—et voilà, a subterranean dining room that’s as charming (candlelit, wood-beamed) as it is unexpected. It has a sort of wine-cellar appeal, which makes sense, since every bottle on the list is available by the glass and quartino as well. The chef works in a culinary idiom that’s part Mediterranean, part Brooklyn: Room-temperature Spanish-mackerel escabèche is crispy-skinned and spice-rubbed, garnished with Cara Cara oranges and basil, and there’s Mast Brothers Chocolate in the airy mousse. Winter’s creamy cauliflower gratin has made way for summer’s green-tomato version, and pole beans have replaced asparagus as an accompaniment for the whole roasted poussin, a flavorful bird that’s also served with buttery spaetzle as crisp as French fries.
- Here’s What to Expect When Alinea Reopens
- Raccoon Lodge Closing on June 30
- Starbucks’s Plan to ‘Revitalize’ Ferguson Might Actually Work
- Pizza Inside a Delivery Box Made of Pizza Changes Everything
- Grub Street’s Restaurant Power Rankings: Jose Garces Opens, New New Nordic in Midtown, a 4-Star Tea Shop, and More