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As the chef of Beacon on West 56th Street, Waldy Malouf is used to preparing high-end dishes in a wood oven. In June 2005, he extended this style to a lower-end venue, firing up pasta and flatbread pies with fresh, thoughtful ingredients to take the concept of the neighborhood pizza joint up a notch. Located on street level in one of Sixth Avenue's new high-rise condo complexes, Waldy's isn't particularly large; while there are a few wood tables and benches, there isn't room to seat a crowd. It's a strange, transitional neighborhood on the edge of the Chelsea flower district, and most customers stopping in seem to have happened upon the place almost by accident. In creating his menu, Malouf was playful with the concept of pizza, topping some pies with perfectly braised pieces of lamb, others with sunny-side-up eggs and asparagus. Most dishes are topped with fresh basil, but if that isn't enough, there's a small platter of fresh herbs—oregano, basil, rosemary, and thyme—that you can pluck from to garnish your meal. Anchovies are available free as toppings. Malouf's playfulness extends to the wine selection, where bottles are sold as either "good" or "better." — David S. Hirschman

Wild mushrooms and onions pizza, $7

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