New York City may be slowly but surely losing its historic neighborhood taverns, but as long as the doors stay open at Walker’s, a slice of Tribeca’s past remains. These days, the haunt plays host to a steady lunch and after-work clientele who drink and dine at the well-worn bar or at the paper-covered tables crowding the slightly cramped front room. Years of late nights (and pre-Bloomberg) smoke have aged the thick paint on the pressed tin ceiling to a mellow patina, while black-and-white photos of bygone street scenes add to the good-old-days luster. As each evening progresses, patrons follow the bar leading to the two quirky, hall-like back dining rooms, leaving the bar to serious drinkers. Straightforward American cuisine is the backbone of the ample menu: shell steak served with roasted potatoes and vegetables, herb-roasted free-range chicken or cowboy chili. But, in a nod to more sophisticated palates, there are more continental dishes, such as grilled yellowfin tuna over field greens and pan-roasted salmon with asparagus, chickpeas, and grape tomatoes. The no-frills tavern burger, meanwhile, is better than you might expect.