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This modest, neighborly restaurant is named for the Austrian hometown of its chef and owner, Kurt Gutenbrunner. It's possible that in this mountain hamlet you can obtain slow-cooked lobster with your spaetzle, or light, improbably flaky strudels stuffed with portions of perfectly cooked salmon, but doubtful. People forget that the Austrians had their own empire once, and their cuisine has a diverse lightness and sophistication to it. If you're tired of France, like everyone else, and searching for classic cooking in a great European tradition, this is the place to find it. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Sat.–Sun., 11 a.m.–2:15 p.m.

Wiener schnitzel, $34; Hungarian oxtail goulash, $32

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Recipes at Wallsé

• Chestnut-Soup Viennese Melange With Black Truffles (2003)
• Elderflower Cocktail (2002)