This Grand Street bistro and raw bar peddles stiff cocktails and sturdy American dinner fare. Dark wood booths and a restored vintage bar compound a somewhat overcalculated atmosphere, though the new-olde look hasn’t stopped local scenesters from thronging the bar on weekends in search of gimlets or dark ‘n’ stormies. Thankfully, it’s not all preening at Walter Foods. Dinner more or less delivers, with nostalgic appetizers like chicken-wing lollipops and substantial mains including a whole roasted trout and respectable New York strip steak. Be prepared to settle in with your drink and wait for a table during the dinner crunch, or stop by at around 11. Like the neighborhood, this restaurant stays up late.