Profile

Barrio Chino owner Dylan Dodd and former Balthazar bartender Danny Minch opened this Grand Street bistro and raw bar where bow-tied waiters present stiff cocktails and sturdy American dinner fare. Pale cream walls are scattered with the occasional black & white photograph of burly fishermen or wooden sail boats. Dark wood booths and a restored vintage bar compound a somewhat over-calculated atmosphere, though the new-olde look hasn’t stopped local scensters from thronging the bar on weekends in search of gimlets or dark n’ stormies. Thankfully, it's not all preening at Walter Foods. Dinner more or less delivers, with nostalgic appetizers like chicken wing lollipops and substantial mains including a 1 1/2 pound lobster and respectable New York strip steak. A smattering of more strong sides—the roasted Brussels sprouts and beer-battered onion rings in particular—round out the experience. Be prepared to settle in with your drink and wait for a table during the dinner crunch, or stop by at around 11. Like the neighborhood, this restaurant stays up late. — Sarah Horne

Bluepoint oysters, $2.25 each; grilled porterhouse pork chop, $24

Related Stories

Featured In

• The Fried-Chicken Craze of 2009: A Guide to Buttermilk Brooklyn (10/5/09)
• Adam Platt's Where to Eat 2009 (1/5/09)