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Although Wasabi's flavorful but undistinguished sushi wouldn't turn heads in Manhattan, it's nothing short of a miracle in sushi-deprived Greenpoint (although perhaps not as shocking in Williamsburg). The restaurant itself is stylish but not elaborately so; the focus is on getting Brooklyn hipsters fed in an efficiently appealing setting. That said, the service can be both spotty and surly. But if you're willing to put up with it, you'll be rewarded with tasty selections from the extensive menu. The rolls are particularly satisfying, including vegetarian rolls like the Zen-Zen, an orgy of mixed seaweed, tofu, asparagus and mushroom. Wasabi may have an extensive menu (there are also numerous hot entrées), but its prices aren't similarly profligate, making it one of Brooklyn's best bets for Japanese cuisine. — Rebecca Marx

Dragon roll, $8; zen-zen roll, $5.25; rainbow roll, $11.25; hijiki, $4.50