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In Northeastern Thailand’s Isan region, savory flavors are favored over the sweet. In Park Slope, Watana Siam makes a good case for both, freshly executing familiar favorites like Pad Thai and red and green curries, with a choice of animal-based or veggie protein, and an excellent roster of dine-in chef'’s specials that highlight Isan cuisine. Like the cozy interior, which juxtaposes an exposed brick wall against gold-embossed art hangings and teak shelves that evoke temple roofs, dishes often join the elegant with the whimsical: Panang chicken curry, textured with sliced peppers, lemongrass, and green onions, is served in a whole young coconut. And a dollop of rum-doused, deep fried green-tea ice cream is set ablaze just as the dish hits the table. Theatrics never trump taste, as the evening crowds prove. If you're feeling adventurous, savor your supper like an Isan local: Scoop a handful of sticky rice from its small bamboo container, roll it into a ball with your fingertips, and dip it into the sauce of each entree. It'’s a fine, finger-licking nod to a neighborhood joint's tasty authenticity. — Laurel Fantauzzo

Chicken panang curry. $9; salmon banana leaf, $13; pad Thai, $8