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The light-tiled WaWa (Korean for “come, come”) is sleek and stylish, with molded chairs, pressed-wood tables, and leather-cushioned benches (one of the owners is an architect). But if your vision of Korean cuisine involves clothes-permeating barbecue smoke and rice that sizzles to a delectable crunch on the bottom of its too-hot-to-touch bowl, WaWa might come as something of a newfangled surprise. The food seems lighter and cleaner, leavened with a smattering of Asian-fusion touches. Which isn’t to say dumbed down—the kimchi stew with pork and vegetables still packs a satisfyingly spicy punch. The appetizers have a particular Japanese flair, especially the block of creamy tofu garnished with bonito flakes in a sesame sauce. WaWa’s bibimbop is basically a rice bowl with a profusion of leafy greens and cooked vegetables, still tasty even without the dish-defining rice crust. Counter service and a workable inventory of interchangeable ingredients keep prices very affordable, incentive enough for NYU students and budget-conscious locals, in search of spa food and Seoul food alike, to heed WaWa’s call and beat a path to its inconspicuous door. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

Kimchi stew, $7.50; tofu salad, $7; bibimbop, $8.50

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Robin Raisfeld's Full Review (1/17/05)