As a downtown-cool-kid hangout, this dim drinkery couldn’t have been
better designed. What is somewhat wasted in the original’s out-of-the-way
Prospect Heights location slides into place in Tribeca: gleaming subway tiles,
a long bar with built-in stools, dim lighting, and a waitstaff so attractive
you at least look twice. It’s a blessing, since the neighborhood needed a good,
classy cocktail bar. The drink list is brief but boozy, with pungent options
like the bright, Scotch-based, ginger- and orange-infused White Horse, or the
smoother, darker cognac-amaretto combo that is the Weather Up Jr. Food is a
strange and sometimes brilliant bar-bites lineup from chef Tyler Kord of
oddball eatery No. 7.
Good luck cobbling together a meal from the offerings —
but it works if it’s just a snack you need. Oysters on the half shell benefit so much from a
hit of green chile that you’ll wonder why you’ve never had the pairing before.
Broccoli rilletes are served traditional-style, in a ramekin with toasts, crème
fraiche, radishes and, strangely but deliciously, another ramekin of crab meat.
And a fried-clam sandwich on Pullman bread and slick with mayo is practically a
sponge for tomorrow’s hangovers. You could while away the whole evening here —
until you get the bill — which, if it’s even calculated properly (hand writing things
on a calling card is cute but not practical) might induce sticker shock. Just
take a cue from the lissome young things around you and act like it doesn’t