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The round booths of Il Matto have been replaced by sensible wooden tables and chairs, and the avant-garde fare has become a tightly curated collection of small plates at Matteo Boglione's redo. This time around, the menu is just as unique and interesting, but more approachable. Settle in for spaghetti carbonara two ways (straight up and with the sauce tucked into ravioli) and a pecorino crème brulée with caramelized onions that's reminiscent of French onion soup. There are date-worthy two-tops in the "lounge area" for picking at octopus and foie gras (served successfully on the same plate) and sipping Christina Bini's still-kooky cocktails, garnished with everything from pecorino Romano to dried grasshoppers. — Lauren Bloomberg

Pecorino crème brulee, $9; octopus, $11; carbonara two ways, $13