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Behind slatted wood blinds reminiscent of a 1930s detective office, and flickering candles that moodily illuminate its near-dark room, Wild Ginger feels tranquil but furtive. A large stone Buddha stands sentry in front of a spa studio-like wall of interlocking pebbles, and low-wattage bulbs embedded in bird cages provide a campy touch. General chatter obscures the Thai music crooning in the background. The menu slants to traditional Thai—noodles and curries, plus selections from the land, sea, sky, and garden. The Thai chef also works up worthy lunch specials. Purists may be disappointed with the Thai standbys: tom kha gai soup is almost all broth, with scraps of chicken and strands of noodles. And the expected flavors of tamarind and fish sauce you'd expect in vegetable pad thai are overwhelmed, oddly, by red and green bell peppers. The panang curry's string beans are crisp and the lime leaves unmistakable, even if the curry doesn't taste as well-blended as it could. More impressive is the young ginger chicken, served in a gravy-thick sauce that packs plenty of gingery heat. Tender pork chops are heightened by a lemongrass flavor seared into the skin. Wild Ginger may not be the most authentically good Thai around, but it's sexy and cheap, a winning mix by most standards. — Ethan Wolff

Crispy seafood dumpling, $4.75; young ginger chicken, $9.25; lemon grass pork chops, $9.50