Wilfie & Nell

This rustic, unpretentious pub traffics in Irish comfort foods like fries with malt vinegar and sausage-wrapped Scotch eggs, or, what Ricky Gervais calls “a delicious and nutritious path to cardiac arrest.” There’s also a solid chicken-liver pâté with onion jam, Berkshire-pork sliders, and an elevated grilled cheese made with McClure’s pickles and pullman loaf. You can eat these fine Irish tapas at the bar or hunched over a rough communal table or beneath a bare-bulb lamp in an odd chair that looks like it might have belonged to Edith Bunker. But be forewarned: If you’ve got an appetite, go early or on a slow night. It gets loud and raucous on weekends, when a thirsty young crowd takes over the room like a swarm of locusts.