In several ways, Win Son seems like a Taiwanese-American Momofuku. But where David Chang built an empire on pork buns (and is trying to do the same with fried-chicken sandwiches), chef Trigg Brown is banking on his own canny constructions. His Nutritious Sandwich is a Croissan’wich for the ages, its sweet fried-dough roll encasing sliced ham and pickled pineapples while The Big Chicken Bun, with its supercolossal slabs of seasoned dark meat protruding from the edges of its squishy pineapple bun like an Iowa pork-tenderloin sandwich, is a delicious understatement. (Fermented-tofu mayo’s a nice touch.) The theme extends to dessert — a simple but deadly vanilla-ice-cream sandwich, served inside a fried miantuan bun with sweetened condensed milk cascading down the sides.