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With flavor that goes from pathetically mild to truly torturous, Wing Wagon has been offering finger-staining, Buffalo-style chicken wings at its fluorescent-scorched, cramped five-table storefront since the early nineties. Portions contain as many as a hundred wings; sides range from French fries and cheese sticks to the usual companions: celery, carrots, and blue cheese. And while other places serve about a three-to-one ratio of wings to drumsticks, WW serves the two in equal numbers. Chicken fingers are plump; onion rings are slightly better than their fast-food cousins; the Philly cheese steak is decent too. But let's face it: The wings are the raison d’être. Call ahead if you want to place a megaorder and give thanks for the complimentary handiwipes. — Stephen Bracco

Wings, wings, wings, $5.25-$60