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New Yorkers frequently forget that there are real ocean beaches within the Five Boroughs. The Winter Garden, on the boardwalk in Brighton Beach, is a pleasant place to sit, drink a Baltika beer, nosh on pelmeni, and be reminded that the Atlantic coast is accessible by subway. Situated at the end of a row of Russian seaside eateries by day, clubs by night, the Winter Garden has ample outdoor seating, colorful décor, and a varied menu. Plates of composed salads are available, along with grilled meats, and Russian classics like Chicken Kiev and borscht. The Kirby pickles are superlative half-sours with a slight fiery edge. Night owls will appreciate the blankets on offer when ocean breezes move to land. There are plenty of seats inside, too, for those who want to be close to the live entertainers on weekends. Mid-week, though, all the action is outside, where you can suck down your vodka and watch the moon-illuminated tide. — Carey Meyers

Meat pelmeni, $7.50; grilled baby lamb chops, $24