4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R at 14th St.-Union Sq.
$5.90 base, extras $.50-$2.50
American Express, Discover, MasterCard, Visa
Canal St. to 42nd St., First Ave. to Tenth Ave.
This venue is closed.
The first U.S. outpost of an Amsterdam chain lures passersby with wok-slingers performing behind glass. As the name implies, the food is fast and geared toward takeout. Only three low tables and a small counter bench are for dining in. Mod, minimalist and toy-like, green and orange plastic squares cover the restaurant’s ceiling. An easy three-step ordering process is spelled out on graphic signs: After picking a foundation of rice, noodles or vegetables, you choose mix-ins like chicken breast, baby corn and peas, and then select one of seven sauces. The jumble is sautéed and scooped into a shiny orange Chinese takeout carton or a deep ivory bowl for those who’ve scored seats. Honey bbq pork loin, their equivalent of char siu (barbecued pork), is a natural match for sweet pineapple; tossing it with peppery soy-based Saigon sauce keeps the rice dish from being cloying. Beef, broccoli and oyster a.k.a. Beijing sauce is traditional, but like many potential combinations, is hardly special. And there lies the problem: will wallet-watching Central Villagers pay a premium for pseudo-healthy stir-fries when cheap lo mein lurks around every corner?Recommended Dishes
Fried rice with pork and pineapple, $9.40