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"I wish we had bialys," the man behind the counter said last time we called. "Personally, I prefer them, but honestly, you’re the first person in months to ask for one. Try one of our bagels. They’re great—I bake them fresh every day." We tried one and our preference for bialys was history. The fish platters (Nova, lox, sturgeon, sable, whitefish, or a combo, each option coming on a bed of elaborately arranged lettuce, tomatoes, onions, and lemons) take you back to a time when the word "platter" really meant something in New York. In fact, that time lives on in Wolf's "Old World Treats and Dairy Dishes" menu: kasha varniskes, potato pirogi, assorted sliced fruits with cottage cheese, and the real-deal deli sandwiches.

Combination sandwiches, $16.95