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Those who don’t relish mirrored walls and a cash register as design elements will be happier with a trip one block north to Wondee Siam’s comparatively luxurious offshoot. At either space, however, heat-seekers will not be cheated, because cooks at both establishments are adept with rich, coconut-milk-based curries strewn with basil; the tawny panang studded with pineapple chunks melds sweet tartness with a chili punch. Whether roasted and tossed into a fruity, savory salad, or fried crisp and layered with herbs and sliced peppers, deliciously fatty duck succeeds in many guises. And anyone who enjoys Indian samosas will be delighted with Wondee’s flaky curry puffs, stuffed with turmeric-stained chicken and sweet potato. Be sure to stop off at a bodega beforehand for a bottle of Singha to serve as your fire extinguisher. — Krista Garcia

Kraree puff, $4.50; kang panang, 87.50; ped kraw prow, $8.50