Wu Liang Ye’s setting is improbable: the second floor of a midtown brownstone facing Rockefeller Center, complete with crystal chandeliers and gilded moldings. There’s a charmingly retro vibe here, and the menu is quite good, if on the pricey side (and sadly lacking lunch specials): superb dan dan noodles; glisteningly juicy ribbons of cumin lamb with sliced garlic and bell peppers; a hefty bowl of braised fish fillets and cabbage, blanketed in whole dried chiles and fresh cilantro. There are also a handful of unusual dishes, like salt-baked frogs, sautéed duck’s tongue, and poached rooster. And a roster of Sichuan classics like double-cooked pork with plum sauce, silky smooth vats of mapo tofu laced with fermented black beans and plenty of ground pork, and pork dumplings bathed in a roasted chile vinaigrette that packs a punch. Not everything blazes — camphor tea-smoked duck is mildly smoky and mercifully chile-free.