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With its standard-issue tables and commercial posters of nature scenes, Xiao La Jiao isn't much to look at. The most notable décor element is a poster of a jaunty red pepper sporting a big grin and a sash—a nod to the restaurant's English name, Little Pepper. The reason to come clearly lies elsewhere: expertly braised dishes. Sliced fish, the best of the bunch, is made like many of the entrées with an incredibly spicy soup base. When the stainless-steel mini-wok arrives, you'll find tender slices of fish, sprouts, onions, small fermented beans, and other goodies bobbing in the angry-looking reddish broth. Amid all this fiery fare (like a cold diced-rabbit appetizer dry-cooked with Sichuan peppercorns), the steamed florets of cauliflower with minced smoked pork are not only a change of pace but provide your tingling tongue a chance to rest. — Joe DiStefano

Diced rabbit meat in red chili sauce, $7.95; cauliflower with minced smoked pork, $7.95; braised sliced fish in spicy soup base, $13.95

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