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The space may be miniscule, but this Middle Eastern eatery compensates for its limited seating (five tables) with impressive portions of falafel, hummus, meat and chicken kebabs, spinach pie, and stuffed grape leaves. Most customers ignore the dimly lit, tin-ceilinged space at the back for the takeout window, which serves mammoth plates of assembly-line fare. Entrées come as both masterfully-wrapped pita sandwiches or loaded on platters, well-dressed with olives, onions, and yogurt sauce. Swashbuckling urbanites, take note: “Yatagan” means “sword” in Turkish, and there’s some pretty tasty knife work up front, where portions are deftly sliced off the basting wheel. — Amy Hegarty

Doner kebab sandwich, $5.50; grilled chicken shish kebab plate, $9.50