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It seems too good to be true: all the sushi you can eat for under $20. That's exactly what's on tap at this tiny, dark Upper East Side staple that's low on ambience but big on bargains. The drill is rigorous: Using the checklist provided, you select as many maki rolls, handrolls and nigiri sushi as you like. You’ve got two hours in which to order and consume every last bite of spicy tuna and flying fish roe you can shovel onto your chopsticks. But when time's up, the plate better be clean, or you're slapped with surcharges—$1 for each uneaten piece of sushi, $2 for each roll. Veterans know to skip the beer and order the pricier fish to get the biggest bang for the buck; tariffs are incurred for fancier rolls. The fish is fresh, not skimpy or over-riced, and there's a full menu of sushi, sashimi, noodle dishes, and bento boxes if you prefer to forgo the super-size option. Appetizers can be uneven: Pork gyoza are salty and blessedly barely fried, but the house salad is a step away from cole slaw. Luckily, the main attraction is the excellent sushi, which keeps arriving, elegantly fanned out on plate after plate, until the kimonoed servers say when. — Melissa Kirsch

All-you-can-eat sushi, $18.95