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Since opening in 2001, Yuki Sushi has proved popular with locals who relish its reliable Japanese offerings, both cooked and raw. Though its name derives from "Yukiguni" (Snow Country), the title of an acclaimed modern love story involving a young geisha, the décor is more serene than romantic, with beige wood wall paneling, flooring, and matching tables and chairs. The dominant accent piece is an enormous live branch with cherry-like fruits; it arches above the dining room. There are few surprises on the menu. Starters like diminutive steamed shrimp shumai are pleasantly mild, although the pan-fried pork gyoza dumplings, imbued with cabbage, onion, and sesame oil, are more flavorful. Shrimp and vegetable tempura are crispy-fried; the crustaceans are engagingly sweet and fresh. For mains there are numerous meat, seafood, and vegetable teriyakis, as well as chewy udon noodle soups. Katsus, the delicately breaded and golden-fried pork or chicken cutlets, are crunchy, yet tender. The pristine sushi and sashimi offerings are exhaustive and include elaborate rolls; spicy tuna is a standout. Perhaps the only surprise at Yuki Sushi is its astounding sake list, with more than 40 varieties. — Michael Anstendig

Gyoza, $5.25; spicy tuna roll, $6.25; pork katsu, $13.95; shrimp & vegetable tempura, $16.25