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Home > Restaurants > Yumcha

Yumcha

29 Bedford St., New York, NY 10014 40.729301 -74.00367
at Downing St.  See Map | Subway Directions Hopstop Popup
212-524-6800 Send to Phone

  • Cuisine: Chinese
  • Price Range: $$$

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  • Reader Rating:

    8 out of 10

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    11 Reviews | Write a Review

Stefano Giovannini

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Official Website

yumchanyc.com

Nearby Subway Stops

1 at Christopher St.-Sheridan Sq.

Payment Methods

American Express, MasterCard, Visa

Reservations

Recommended

Profile

This venue is closed.

In the gifted hands of Ten Vong, who grew up in family-owned Chinese restaurants in Baltimore, Yumcha is more Chinese and less Pan-Asian. Vong dreams up Chinese dishes for the 21st century—the same sophisticated new cuisine celebrated now in Shanghai and Beijing. Vibrant evidence are the luscious udon-noodle salad with citrus sorbet, and delicate lobster shumai with crème fraîche and caviar making calligraphy on the plate. The challenge, Vong says, was divining menu prose to evoke a Chinese aesthetic. Such blatant cuteness might annoy if the food weren't so good. A smartly tart pomegranate-and-vodka Red Dragon puts me in the mood to be amused by "Concubine's forbidden pleasure" (those noodles), and "Fisherman wanders hither," ethereal scallops in a water-chestnut broth with pork belly. What we are eating is impressive and reasonably priced: maple-glazed five-spiced quail; Peking duck revisited ("Red Emperor returning North"); and ginger-lacquered veal cheeks, a.k.a. "Maiden contemplating fields of eternal spring."

Recommended Dishes

Maple-glazed five-spiced quail, $11; Peking duck, $23; ginger-lacquered veal cheeks, $23

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