Yun Nan Flavour Garden

What began as a husband-and-wife operation in a cramped side-street kitchen is now a fully staffed restaurant on Eighth Avenue’s main stretch. The expanded digs have given the kitchen enough space to showcase its “Crossing the Bridge” noodles, a brothy and aromatic Yunnan specialty put together tableside, not unlike pho; it’s built on squiggly rice noodles and layered with thin-sliced ham, sprouts, and barely cooked quail eggs. Order the cold noodles with chicken if the dish is available. But there are other highlights on the menu, including a plump, sturdy pork dumpling served with hot-and-sour sauce, whose one-two punch comes courtesy of a flotilla of dark-toasted chiles and glugs of tangy black vinegar. The skinny housemade rice noodles appear again at the foundation of the “crispy meat sauce,” which is shorthand for nubs of chicharrónes and slices of pig intestine. Perhaps in response to an influx of new customers, the staff now double-checks to make sure you know what you’re eating. Don’t be afraid: Just think of the dish as a duel between peppery heat and subtle sweetness, with the offal caught in the crossfire.