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The friendly husband-and-wife owners hail from Yunnan, the southwestern Chinese province bordering Myanmar and Vietnam, and they specialize in nicely chewy, silky white rice noodles served in bountiful bowls of soup adorned with cilantro and hot sauce and slurped at the low counter that runs around the periphery of the tiny room. Broths are dark and murky, populated by your choice of stewed beef or pork, and might contain the odd snout or two. Heat waves call for cold noodles, doused with sweet-and-spicy sauces and way more sugar than you might expect. There are plump pork dumplings, too, elegantly crimped and immersed in a hot-and-sour broth. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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