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Manhattan Thai restaurants have long been plagued by sugary, peanut-heavy dishes that inadequately represent Thailand’s culinary diversity. Enter Zabb City. This East Village restaurant has the solemnity of an archaeological display awash in temple reds, its exposed brick wall hung with painted masks. Zabb, an adjective in the dialect of the northeast Isaan region, refers, roughly, to anything mouthwatering in an Isaan way. The food of this inland culture eschews sugar and coconut milk in favor of sour, salty, and fiery flavors punctuating pork, poultry, and river fish with fresh herbs and vegetables. Twenty lime- and cilantro-marinated meat or fruit salads dominate a menu that also trots out the standard curries and noodles, and slices of slightly tangy, grilled pork sausage are shot through with grains of sticky rice. — Ganda Suthivarakom

Esan sausage, $7.95