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This easygoing, sophisticated spot, with square black tables, caramel-colored Modernica chairs, walls of white brick, and an elongated, 14-seat bar, serves chicetti-style small plates (the Northern Italian version of tapas) along with mix-n-match selections of salumi and cheeses and nutmeg-spiked, house-made quince and fig purees. Construct your own three-crostini sampler; white beans with salty duck prosciutto, creamy ricotta, and spiced-up tuna with capers are big winners. The main piatti portion of the menu mingles salads and mains (including a swoon-inducing, béchamel-rich lasagna); look to the friendly servers for guidance. Twenty-five Italian wines, all available by the glass, and a Bossa Nova soundtrack contribute their own gifts to the warm-cool vibe. — Amy Zavatto

Grande antipasto Toscano, $22; poached salmon with salsa verde and lentils, $21; lasagna Bolognese, $20