Zero Otto Nove

As mandatory a stop on the tristate pizza-pilgrim map as Coney Island’s Totonno’s and New Haven’s Pepe’s, Zero Otto Nove is not only a pizzeria but a sprawling trattoria with an expansive menu and a pretty impressive pasta al forno. The Neapolitan wood-fired-oven pizza, though, is the thing. It’s light and puffy-lipped, tender to the bite with just a hint of chew, nicely balanced, and topped with first-rate ingredients. Purists will want to try the margherita dabbed with melted blobs of buffalo mozzarella like a painter’s palette. But don’t forgo the relatively outré La Riccardo — smoked mozzarella, pancetta, and butternut-squash purée.