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The two pudgy hens engaged in a celebratory dance on Zest’s mocha-colored awning appear as if their obvious fate is something to cheer about. But if they were to end up in a pot or pan of chef-owner Axel Schade, at least they’d know their final bow would be a delicious one. Schade, who spent time in the kitchen at Aesop’s Tables, is a fan of the classics, and his largely bistro fare is rare and welcome around here. It’s at its best in dishes like cassoulet—a dark, lush, thyme-touched mix of French white beans, tender chunks of lamb and pork, and rich duck sausage—or the stand-out seared aged black-Angus shell steak served with an addictive, generous mixture of veal demi-glace, shallots, green peppercorn, brandy, and a whisper of cream. Partner Oksana Dergunova has made the most of the view provided to passersby via the three floor-to-ceiling double wood-and-glass doors. Her elegantly candlelit modern dining room of butter-gold accents and dark wood appears to glow as the sun sets. On balmy nights, ask for a table in the back garden. Its rectangular fountain, pretty plants, and rough-hewn accents are a boon to the neighborhood. — Amy Zavatto

Cassoulet, $23.50; braised lamb shanks, $25; aged black angus filet mignon, $39