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It's the Arabic word for olive, a beloved soccer star of the eighties, and Moroccan-born Alain Bennouna's third effort to score on this corner. French influence shows in the elegance of classics like cinnamon-stippled b'steeya (smartly using moist duck) and in fragrant harira--the meaty soup eaten to break the fasts of Ramadan. Add a point for gentle prices and a $25 prix fixe with a glass of wine if you're willing to exit by 8 p.m.