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Zócalo is Spanish for “central plaza,” and there’s a communal feel right from the front door, which opens into a cozy, festive bar area. Behind strands of twinkle lights and tin sconces, a narrow second room leads to a high-ceilinged main dining area, where a pair of sculpted parrots look down on folk art representations of campesinos. Guacamoles top the appetizer list, available in a tasting plate that serves up a fresh, traditional version alongside two more experimental takes including the guacamole rojo, which is smoky, seasoned with chipotle and topped with farmer’s cheese. For entrées, humble tacos are upscaled with Kobe-style beef in supple, homemade corn tortillas. Pork ribs are blackened in a jalapeño barbeque sauce and tenderized in banana leaves, while the succulent, organic Niman Ranch meat parts from its bones with a simple nudge of the fork. — Ethan Wolff

Zocalo's Grand Central location specializes in portable items like burritos and sandwiches, but table service is available.

Guacamole tasting, $18; pork ribs, $26; Kobe beef tacos, $25

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