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Although the padded, high-armed swivel chairs at this Greek-American eatery evoke suburban cheese, Zodiac's one décor debacle doesn't detract from the rest of its interior like the pretty muralist walls and lush burgundy carpeting. If you prefer to eat your cheese rather than see it, try the Garides Ellinikes, a sautéed entrée that weds shrimp to feta, some garlic bits and onion chunks in a white wine sauce. Saganaki, which sears lemon against sharp imported cheese, and Kefalograviera, served cold with tomatoes and olives, are simple starters that give good Greek, too. Main dishes also value simplicity over showiness. Stuffed filet of sole fares better with slightly wilted spinach than fishy crabmeat, and chicken and shish kebabs, like pork and beef Souvlakis, are spicy and flavorful. — Leonard Jacobs

Thu.–Sun.; 10 p.m.–4 a.m.

Chicken souvlaki, $11.95; hot Greek combination platter, $20.95; chicken skaras, $14.95