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Zucker’s is a throwback kosher-style deli with around a dozen varieties of smoked fish, corned beef, and delectable hand-rolled bagels. But Zucker’s is also very much in tune with its downtown surroundings: The place is designed by Glen Coben, best known for Del Posto and Riingo. The result is a handsome and evocative update of the vintage tile-walled deli, where it feels just as right to sip a chai latte as to wolf chopped whitefish on a bialy. Alongside Zucker’s top-quality deli standards arrayed under glass are salads, tofu spreads, and chicken fingers for toddlers. Complete brown-bag lunches and dozens of pastries, sourced from Manhattan and Brooklyn’s best bakeries, are popular with the neighborhood schoolkids who have adopted Zucker’s as their after-three clubhouse. — Karen Tina Harrison

Bagels, $1.00; lox and bagel, $8.95-$11.95; homemade tuna sandwich, $5.25; baked salmon or whitefish salad sandwich, $5.95