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Zuni is a poor man's Mesa Grill—the plates may not have as much flair, but the food is nearly as good, and half the price. The well-perfected and modest menu of New American cuisine with a Southern beat has attracted pre-theater rushers and Hell's Kitchen regulars for more than a decade. Crust is a crucial component here: Catfish is encrusted with pumpkin seeds, chicken with cornmeal, and warm goat cheese with polenta. Corn fritters—deep-fried balls of cornmeal, jalapeno, and corn kernels, served with honey and chipotle mayo—are dangerously irresistible. Beyond pan- and deep-fried goodies are salubrious entrée salads—Gulf shrimp, field greens, and Mediterranean—as well as burgers and sandwiches stuffed with salmon or spicy chicken breast. Most standards tend to be glazed or blended with bright or palate-enhancing flavors: tomato-coriander or citrus-ginger vinaigrettes, crushed red pepper, or apple cider-thyme. The interior, like the food, is more than pleasant enough. The room has wooden dividers that section off smaller, more intimate, areas with small tables and dark-wood booths, and the yellow and orange walls are festooned with abstract, Matisse-bright paintings. — Stephen Weiss

Sat.—Sun., 11:30 a.m.—4 p.m.

Catfish encrusted with pumpkin seed, $18.95; gulf shrimp salad, $13.50; stuffed salmon, $18.95